Hawaii – February 2025

February 9 – 25, 2025

A Blend of History, Scenery, and Spam! Peter and I aren’t strictly budget travelers, but we prioritize unique experiences over luxury accommodations. Thanks to credit card points, Delta companion passes, and a strategic mix of grocery store snacks and divey restaurant meals, we made this Hawaiian adventure both exciting and (somewhat) affordable. Our biggest splurges? An inter-island cruise to visit 4 islands and a couple of unforgettable excursions—the Kualoa Ranch ATV tour (Oahu) and a Napali Coast sunset sail (Kauai).

Link to Trip Photos

OVERALL

We flew in and out of Honolulu and spent a few days exploring Oahu with a rental car before turning the car in and staying a couple of nights in Waikiki. We boarded the inter-island cruise at the Honolulu port and stopped in Maui (2 days), Big Island (2 stops – Hilo & Kona), and Kauai (2 days) before returning back to Honolulu and spending a couple more nights in Waikiki. We rented cars on each island and drove 923 miles total across the 4 islands. The islands are all very different, and we had a great time exploring each of them. I organized this post by island vs. day to help others with travel planning.

The Cruise: Norwegian Pride of America – This is the only ship that sails inter-island Hawaii, running Saturday to Saturday. We treated the ship as a hotel, getting off as soon as we docked each day and grabbing a rental car to explore each island. The cruise demographic skewed older and seemingly less experienced travelers, but it was a great way to see four islands without spending time in the airport towing luggage around. The ship excursions were expensive – so I recommend looking for local tours or renting a car at each port.
GuideAlong GPS Tour Guide – We used our trusty tour guide app that has helped us maximize our time in several national parks. If you do all the islands, some of the Hawaii history information is repetitive, but a great way to learn while you drive!
Rental Cars – We rented from National, which has locations at airports. It was cumbersome to get a ride to/from the airport at each port. The Maui airport was especially busy, and you had to walk a long way to get a rideshare/cab back to the port. Some of the smaller ones were easier, and Kauai had a free rental car shuttle from the port that was helpful! The best gas prices were at Costco. PSA: There is very limited parking in Waikiki (Oahu) in general, so you may want to ditch the rental car or be prepared to pay $$ to park overnight.
Flights (Nashville-LAX-Honolulu) – We flew out of Nashville (for cheaper flights) and spent a night on either end of our trip in Franklin, TN, with Peter’s sister. On the way there, we strategically got a whole economy row and tested out my new foot sling hanging on the tray table (game changer). On the way back, I got lucky and was upgraded to a Delta One lie-flat seat for the first leg of the trip (not a Delta One marketing route though – so limited perks). I had a white tablecloth, hot french toast breakfast, and the fancy snacks (AKA my favorite gummy bears) while Peter was roughing it in coach…
Light Therapy Experiment – I experimented with “biohacking” to combat jet lag. I purchased a small portable “daylight” light from Amazon and used it to help shift our circadian rhythm to the 5 hour time difference. Westbound, you use the night light to stay up later. Eastbound, we used it first thing in the AM to shift back. I think it helped!

OAHU

Activities & Sightseeing

Pearl Harbor – We made Arizona Memorial reservations in advance; however, we arrived at opening (7AM) and joined the standby line to get a seat on the first Arizona Memorial boat at 8AM. It was a sobering experience seeing the memorial and the oil still rising from the ship. Peter’s grandfather was on the USS Fanning, a destroyer ship that was escorting the Enterprise aircraft carrier. They had left Pearl Harbor just before the attack to deliver planes to Wake Island (where they thought the Japanese might attack), and the ships returned to the destruction in the harbor after the attack.
Kualoa Ranch ATV Tour – This was one of our splurges. We booked an ATV tour to ride through the valley where lots of movies have been filmed, including several of the Jurassic Park movies. The views were unreal—lush, green mountains and ocean vistas. It was easily a highlight of our trip! Book your tour in advance, as they typically sell out early in the day.
Dole Plantation – A quick, touristy stop for a Dole Whip and a very messy chocolate-dipped pineapple slice. The plantation has a large garden maze (one of the world’s largest) and a scenic train tour that are popular with families. It’s a fun stop, but expect crowds.
Byodo-In Temple – A non-denominational Buddhist temple that is a replica of the 950+ year-old Byodoin Temple in Japan. We struck the giant bon-sho (sacred bell), said to bring peace and happiness to those who ring it, and admired the serene setting. The koi ponds and meditation spots made this a peaceful retreat from the busy tourist areas. There is a small entry fee to get in.
Nuʻuanu Pali Lookout – The green cliffs and sweeping ocean views of the windward coast make this a scenic quick stop. The site is historically significant as the location of the Battle of Nuʻuanu in 1795, where King Kamehameha I won a decisive victory uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Typically, it is very windy at the lookout, but we lucked into a calm day.
Makapuʻu Point Vista – A steep but paved hike leading to incredible views of the Makapuʻu Lighthouse and the vast Pacific Ocean. On a clear day, you can even see Molokaʻi and Lānaʻi islands in the distance. We were lucky to see humpback whales in the distance on our hike up.
Halona Blowhole – A quick roadside stop to watch ocean waves forcefully shoot through a lava tube, creating a geyser-like spray. The intensity depends on the tide and surf conditions.
Diamond Head Hike – Reservations are required. We got a Lyft over to the park at 6 AM to hike up in the dark. The trail features switchbacks, steep staircases, tunnels, and an old military bunker at the top. Bring a flashlight—we only avoided stepping in puddles thanks to a very nice man with a flashlight in front of us. It was busy with other hikers, but the 360-degree views at the top were well worth the workout.
Waimea Beach – A quick stop to admire the scenic coastline.
Sunset Beach – Watched surfers catching winter swells and spotted a whale breaching in the distance! This stretch of the North Shore is famous for its massive waves during the winter surf season. Parking was a nightmare, so we had to skip a few other planned stops in the area.
Kailua Beach – We relaxed on the beach for an hour or so before heading out in search of Spam musubi. This area is known for its turquoise waters and is popular with kayakers heading to the offshore Mokulua Islands.
Waikiki Beach Stroll – We walked past the iconic Duke Kahanamoku statue and through the busy beachfront scene. Loved the mix of 60s/70s-era architecture and swanky hotels near the Waikiki Beach.
Kaka’ako Murals & Shops – Walked around the Kaka’ako district to see vibrant street art murals and browse local boutiques.

Food & Drink

Honolulu Delta Sky Club (Honolulu Airport) – This tiny little Sky Club may be my new favorite! It’s not the largest lounge, but the food selection was surprisingly great. On arrival, we stopped in and had our first Spam dish—Spam fried rice—alongside a refreshing Mai Tai that ended up being the best one we had the entire trip. A solid introduction to Hawaiian flavors upon arrival!
Costco (Honolulu – Iwilei) – We unknowingly visited the busiest Costco in the world on our first day. The parking lot was absolute chaos, but once inside, it didn’t feel overly packed. We stocked up on Hawaiian goodies, including fresh poke from the deli (a must-try!), Kona coffee macadamia nuts, and locally grown pineapple. We also grabbed a Spam t-shirt—because, well, when in Hawaii!
Costco (Honolulu – Diamond Head) – A quick stop to pick up garlic shrimp from the deli, which we took to a beachside park for a casual, scenic meal.
Waiahole Poi Factory (Windward Coast) – A spot for authentic Hawaiian comfort food. We tried the laulau plate, which included pork wrapped in taro leaves and slow-cooked. The fresh poi was an experience—I wasn’t a fan of the texture, but it’s a must-try for a taste of tradition. The highlight was the Sweet Lady of Waiahole dessert, a taro and coconut ice cream combo that was creamy and absolutely delicious.
Maguro Spot (Waikiki) – A tiny, unassuming poke shop in Waikiki that came highly recommended by our Lyft driver. It’s a no-frills, takeout-style spot with some of the freshest poke we had all trip. I got the Rainbow Special bowl with tuna, blue marlin, salmon, and a creamy mayo-based sauce.
Leonard’s Bakery (Honolulu – Kapahulu Area) – Famous for malasadas, and for good reason! These Portuguese-style doughnuts are soft, pillowy, and covered in sugar. We tried one custard-filled and one macadamia-flavored—both were fantastic. Be prepared for a line, but it moves quickly.
Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice (Honolulu – Kapahulu Area) – This was easily the best shave ice we had on the trip. I got the Haleakala flavor, a combination of coconut and leche, served over vanilla ice cream. The texture of the ice was like snow – fine and fluffy. Worth seeking out!
Redfish Waikiki (in Wayfinder Waikiki, Waikiki) – A modern poke bar located inside the Wayfinder Waikiki hotel, owned by the well-known Hawaiian grocery chain Foodland (aka, the one of the best places to grab poke in Hawaii). The Masago Chili Crunch Ahi poke nachos on the happy hour menu were incredible. Peter got a poke bowl with salmon and hamachi.
Mahina & Sun’s (in Surfjack Hotel, Waikiki) – A poolside restaurant with a laid-back, retro vibe inside the Surfjack Hotel. Great cocktails, locally sourced ingredients, and fresh, delicious food. It felt like a hidden gem away from the more touristy spots in Waikiki.
Hana Koa Brewing Co. (Honolulu – Kaka’ako District) – The best local beer brand we had on the trip. The brewery itself is beautiful—spacious with a great atmosphere. We ordered a couple of their beers and shared a bowl of saimin, a Hawaiian noodle dish similar to ramen, but with a lighter, more delicate broth.

Accommodations

Paradise Bay Resort (Windward Coast) – A quaint, tucked-away resort on the windward side of Oahu, offering a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of Honolulu. The setting felt more like a local neighborhood than a tourist hotspot, surrounded by lush greenery and views of Kaneohe Bay. We woke up to the sound of roosters and had to shoo away some resident chickens and cats from under our rental car before heading out. If you’re looking for a quieter, more laid-back stay, this is a great option.
Wayfinder Waikiki – An older brutalist-style building (built in 1969) that’s been stylishly renovated with modern decor. The vibe was a mix of retro and tropical, with thoughtful design touches throughout. We were greeted with a welcome piña colada in the cozy Lost & Found Bar by the pool—much needed after a long travel day! The pool itself was larger than most in Waikiki, surrounded by greenery, making it feel like a little oasis in the middle of the city. A great place to unwind after a day of exploring.
Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club (Waikiki) – A hip, retro-inspired boutique hotel located near the Ala Wai Canal. The whole place had a relaxed, vintage surfer aesthetic, from the mid-century modern decor to the hand-painted “Wish You Were Here” message at the bottom of the pool. One of the highlights? Jack, the resident English/French bulldog mix, who hangs out on the second-floor lanai and occasionally makes appearances around the property. They offer adult swim hours, live music by the pool in the evenings, and an all-around friendly, non-pretentious vibe. Bonus: It’s dog-friendly, making it an even better spot for fellow pet lovers!

MAUI

Activities & Sightseeing

Road to Hana – A full-day adventure packed with waterfalls, scenic overlooks, and winding roads (620 curves and 59 one-way bridges). We started early and made several stops along the route before turning back at Charles Lindbergh’s Grave. This is a full-day commitment—start early and pack snacks!
- Ke‘anae Peninsula & Arboretum (Mile Marker 16.8) – A rugged volcanic peninsula jutting into the ocean, offering incredible views of crashing waves and lush greenery. The small arboretum nearby showcases native Hawaiian plants and towering rainbow eucalyptus trees. The entrance is not well marked.
- Wailua Valley State Wayside (Mile Marker 18) – A quick roadside stop with panoramic views of Wailua Valley, taro fields, and waterfalls cascading in the distance.
- Upper Waikani Falls (Mile Marker 19) – Also called “Three Bears Falls,” this stunning three-tiered waterfall is visible from the road. Parking is limited, so we admired it from the car.
- Nahiku Marketplace (Mile Marker 29) – A small roadside collection of food vendors and local crafts. We stopped for a huli huli chicken plate ($25—expensive, but delicious!) and grabbed a bag of delicious macadamia nut brittle to snack on later.
- Waiʻānapanapa State Park (Mile Marker 32) – A must-see stop featuring a striking black sand beach, lava tubes, sea caves, and dramatic coastal views. Timed reservations are required in advance—don’t get turned away! We explored the beach, wandered into a sea cave, and followed a short trail along the coastline.
- Wailua Falls (Mile Marker 45) – One of Maui’s most picturesque waterfalls, dropping 80 feet into a lush tropical setting. Easy to see right from the road.
- Hāna Town (Mile Marker 34) – A small, quiet town with a laid-back atmosphere. We drove through, passing local shops and food stands, but didn’t linger long. Don’t turn around and head back yet!
- Haleakalā National Park – ‘Ohe‘o Gulch (Mile Marker 42) – Also known as the Seven Sacred Pools, this series of tiered pools and waterfalls is a beautiful and serene spot. Requires a National park pass, which is also valid for Haleakalā summit.
- Charles Lindbergh’s Grave (Mile Marker 41) – A peaceful and off-the-beaten-path stop at a small church cemetery. The famous aviator chose to be buried here, overlooking the ocean.
Haleakalā National Park Sunrise – One of the most spectacular sunrises we’ve ever seen! Book reservations 60 days in advance or check for cancellations. We bundled up in layers, gloves, and scarves. Despite being in Hawaii, the summit sits at 10,000 feet, and temperatures before sunrise can drop below freezing. A park ranger performed a traditional Hawaiian chant as the first rays of sunlight illuminated the crater, adding a spiritual touch to the experience.
Makawao – A historic cowboy town turned artsy district with local boutiques and bakeries. A great stop after Haleakalā for coffee or breakfast! We strolled through the town’s charming streets, checking out handcrafted goods, local artwork, and historic buildings.
West Maui Drive – Drove toward Lahaina and Kaanapali, spotting whales along the scenic coastline. The drive featured stunning ocean views, and we reminisced about past trips to this area with my parents, remembering the iconic banyan tree and beachfront shops. The August 2023 Lahina fire damage was visible from a distance, and the main road has been rerouted around the town.
Rental Car & Logistics – We rented from National Car Rental (Airport) and took a Lyft to pick up the car. There’s an Enterprise within walking distance of the port for a more convenient option. Returning the car was a bit of a hassle— a plane had just landed, and no Lyfts were available, so we grabbed a taxi back to the port.
Cruise Ship – Onboard Bonus – I took a guided orchid lei-making class and wore my handmade lei to dinner (and for the next 5 days!). A fun and free cruise activity!

Food & Drink

Komodo Bakery (Makawao) – A historic bakery (in business since 1916) known for its delicious pastries. Perfect for a quick breakfast or snack! We tried a box full of their sweet breads.
Nahiku Marketplace (Road to Hana) – Limited food options on the Road to Hana, so plan accordingly! Picked up an expensive huli huli chicken plate for lunch and some amazing macadamia nut brittle.

BIG ISLAND

Activities & Sightseeing

Mauna Kea & Sunrise from the Ship (Hilo) – Woke up early to catch the sunrise over Mauna Kea from the ship. The peak was covered in snow, a surreal sight in Hawaii.
Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park (Hilo) – Home to Kīlauea, the world’s most active volcano, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The landscape is constantly changing as lava flows and gas emissions shift over time. The visitor center had recently closed for a two-year renovation, but the park was still fully accessible.
- Canyon Rim Drive – A scenic drive along the crater rim, showcasing vast lava fields, steaming vents, and dramatic volcanic landscapes.
- Chain of Craters Road – A winding drive that descends 4,000 feet to the ocean through fields of hardened lava. Drove over large cracks in the road from past earthquakes—a reminder of the island’s ever-changing geology. The drive down Chain of Craters Road to reach this the Sea Arch takes about 45 minutes one way.
- Hōlei Sea Arch & Black Cliffs – Some of the newest land on Earth. The towering cliffs and striking sea arch were a breathtaking sight.
Wildlife Sightings – Spotted a mongoose darting across the road (introduced to the islands and not native) and finally saw some nēnē (Hawaiian geese), Hawaii’s rare state bird.
Liliʻuokalani Gardens (Hilo) – A serene Japanese-style garden in downtown Hilo with koi ponds, pagodas, and a beautiful view of the bay. Worth a quick stop for a peaceful stroll.
Tender Port Experience (Kailua-Kona) – The ship can’t dock here, so we had to take a tender. We caught the first tender at 6:30 AM and were onshore before 7. The tenders were the ship’s lifeboats, making for a fun (but slightly cramped) ride.
South Kona Coffee Coast Drive (Kailua-Kona) – Picked up our rental car at the Kailua-Kona airport and drove south along the Kona Coffee Belt, home to some of the best coffee in the world.
Honaunau Bay & Two Step Beach (Kailua-Kona) – We had read this was a good snorkeling spot – but the conditions were rough when we visited. We had a somewhat traumatic experience getting in, as big waves roughly threw us back into the rocks at the famous “two steps.” We quickly gave up (getting pulled out by some strangers) and stuck to the calmer boat dock area, where we still saw some colorful fish. A word of caution: many snorkeling spots in Hawaii do not have lifeguards, and ocean conditions can change rapidly. If you’re not a strong swimmer, it’s best to stick to calm areas or choose beaches with lifeguards on duty. Trust us – this was a scary experience.
Painted Church (Kailua-Kona) – A small but beautiful church with intricate murals covering the walls and ceiling. The surrounding gardens were also lovely.
Greenwell Coffee Farm (Kailua-Kona) – Stopped in for free Kona coffee samples. They offer free tours of the farm, but we opted to just browse the shop and sip some fresh brew.
Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park (Kailua-Kona) – Parked at the harbor and took a short walk across old lava flows to reach the beach, where we saw several green sea turtles sunning themselves on the rocks and swimming in the tide pools. The snorkeling here looked much calmer than Two Step—probably a better option for beginner snorkelers!
Exploring Downtown Kona (Kailua-Kona) – Dropped the car off early and took a rideshare back to the waterfront. Kona is one of the most walkable cruise ports, with plenty of shops, restaurants, and historical sites within easy reach.

Food & Drink

Hilo Farmers Market (Hilo) – Stopped for a delicious mixed bowl with sushi rice, ahi poke, crab and avocado salad, and macaroni salad. Dessert was passion fruit shave ice over vanilla ice cream, drizzled with sweetened condensed milk.
Breadbasket by Two Step (Kailua-Kona) – A tiny bread stand running on the honor system. We grabbed some banana bread and an ‘ube (purple yam) and white chocolate chip cookie, which was absolutely amazing!
Kona Brewing Co. (Kailua-Kona) – Visited the original Kona Brewing location, which is independently operated (unlike the mainland brand owned by beer giant – InBev). A great spot to try some locally brewed beers and grab a quick bite.

KAUAI

Activities & Sightseeing

Nawiliwili/Lihue Arrival – The ship docked at Nawiliwili Harbor. A free shuttle was available to the car rental center at Lihue Airport, but we skipped the long line and opted for an Uber instead.
Waimea Canyon & Kokeʻe State Park (West Kauai) – Often called “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” Waimea Canyon offers jaw-dropping scenic overlooks, deep red cliffs, and lush green valleys. Kauai is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, and millions of years of erosion and plant growth have transformed it into the lush “Garden Isle” we see today. Driving through this region was absolutely stunning, with multiple pull-off points for panoramic views.
Hanapepe (West Kauai) – A charming little town known for its art galleries, swinging bridge, and local shops. We strolled through town, walked across the historic bridge, and grabbed a quick bite before heading to our boat tour.
Nā Pali Coast Sunset Sail (West Kauai) – Since the Nā Pali Coast is only accessible by boat, hike, or helicopter, we opted for a five-hour sunset sail out of Port Allen. The boat was a small pontoon sailboat with about 40 people on board—spacious enough to move around but still an intimate experience. The ride was rough due to the waves, making it feel like a roller coaster at times (fun for us, not so much for others!). The passengers seated in the front of the boat got absolutely drenched when we were moving at top speed—bring towels! The views of the dramatic cliffs at sunset were breathtaking, making this a highlight of our trip.
Poipu Beach (South Kauai) – We started Day 2 here in search of Hawaiian monk seals. While we didn’t spot any seals, we did see nine green sea turtles sunning themselves on the sand.
Salt Pond State Park (West Kauai) – Recommended by a lifeguard, this little crescent-shaped beach near Hanapepe has calmer waters, a lifeguard station, and lots of locals enjoying the area. No monk seal sightings, but if we were planning to swim, this would have been a great spot.
Wailua Falls (East Kauai) – A picturesque double waterfall, famous for being featured in the opening of the original Fantasy Island TV show. A quick but worthwhile stop for photos.
Hanalei (North Kauai) – A trendy, laid-back surf town on the north shore, filled with boutique shops, food trucks, and relaxed beach vibes. To enter town, you must cross a one-lane bridge, where the custom is to let 5-7 cars pass in one direction before switching. The slow pace fit the town’s relaxed feel. This is a really cool little town!
State Park Beach Areas (North Kauai) – Some beaches on the north shore require reservations, so be sure to plan ahead if you want to explore beyond Hanalei. We did not have reservations so we skipped this area.
Return to the Port – On our way back, we finally saw some monk seals on the beach rocks from the roadside! The drive back was slow, with traffic in every small town due to road construction and typical beach town congestion. The Costco gas station near the airport was packed with long lines for fuel, so plan extra time if you need to top off the rental car before returning it.

Food & Drink

Hanalei Food Trucks (North Kauai – Hanalei) – Stopped at a Thai food truck for lunch. Great flavors, fresh ingredients, and a relaxed island vibe.
Tahiti Nui (North Kauai – Hanalei) – A classic tiki bar in Hanalei with strong Mai Tais and a fun atmosphere. A great place to unwind after exploring the north shore.
Wishing Well Shave Ice (North Kauai – Hanalei) – We got a bowl with macadamia nut ice cream, passion fruit, and coconut flavor – yummy!