Travel Minimalism

Zurich, Switzerland & Oktoberfest – September 2025

September 14 – 23, 2025

Ten days, four countries, twelve trains – we crammed it all in, from lake walks and alpine views to gilded rooftops, Oktoberfest chaos, and even a vineyard run by a prince in tiny Liechtenstein. A blur of history, scenery, and beer mugs that somehow felt both exhausting and absolutely perfect!

Link to our Route

Day 1 & 2 – Zurich, Switzerland

  • Flight & Arrival – We flew from Chattanooga around lunch on Sunday. With flying time and a six-hour time hop forward, we landed in Zurich a little before 8am Monday, their time. I prepped by trying to go to bed and wake up a little earlier each day the week before. We both managed a few hours of uncomfortable plane sleep – but not nearly enough.
  • Train from Airport – After clearing immigration, we caught the train from the airport. Less than 15 minutes to Zurich HB (main train station). Very easy to grab a ticket on the fly in the SBB App.
  • Lake Zurich & Old Town – We couldn’t check in at Hotel City Zürich until 3pm, so we dropped off our backpacks and wandered down to the lake and around Old Town, trying to stay awake until check-in.
  • Grossmünster Church – Paid a small fee to climb the tower (my legs were burning). Inside, admired the modern stained glass – some of the most unique and artistic I’ve ever seen. Very cool.
  • Souvenir Stop – Popped in the Swatch flagship store to pick up a watch. Yes, you can get them in the US, but it feels cooler to grab one where it’s made. Between the watch and my On Cloud tennis shoes – I’m feeling very Swiss, haha!
  • Hotel Check-In – Thankfully we got into our hotel room a little early – we were running on fumes. After a power nap and shower, we felt human again.
  • Zurich West
    • Tram Ride – Took the lightrail (also easily booked on the SBB app).
    • Viadukt – Elevated rail line with shops tucked between the arches. Much less touristy vibe on this side of town. Multiple shopkeepers started speaking German to us, so we must have blended in. Fun fact: Switzerland has four official languages, with the most common being German.
    • Frau Gerolds Garten – Quirky space with plants, art, and café tables scattered throughout. A very cool spot for dinner, a drink, or – in our case – pre-dinner gelato.
  • Food/Drink:
    • Lunch – Zum Königstuhl – Swiss fondue with bread and potatoes. Burrata to start. Cheese overload, but so good! Restaurant prices are very expensive here – especially with the 1 CHF to 1.2 USD exchange rate.
    • Dinner – Haus Hiltl – The world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant according to Guinness. Tried watermelon sashimi and a Swiss dish that was similar to hash browns with gravy, recommended by our waiter. Both were delicious, though the watermelon was more our taste.
  • Random Observations/Tips:
    • Packing Notes – Both of us packed into large carry-on size backpacks. Mine wasn’t full, but still 25 lbs (would like to get that down). I’m treating this trip like a weighted vest walk with better scenery – my favorite kind of workout! Walking and catching trains is much easier with no rolling luggage.
    • We were worn out, so no trouble falling asleep – about six hours earlier than usual – and we slept for ~12 hours straight!

Day 3 – Lucerne, Switzerland

  • Morning Train – We slept in, grabbed a quick snack at the Zurich train station, and caught the Treno Gottardo to Arth-Goldau. It’s supposed to be a scenic route, but we missed the section that runs through the Alps to Locarno. Transferred to a second train and rolled into Lucerne late morning.
  • Hotel Central Luzern – Short walk from the train station. Cute, clean, and breakfast included. No AC, but fine with the cooler weather. We were able to check in a little before noon, dropped bags, and set out to explore.
  • Chapel Bridge – Lucerne’s most iconic landmark. A covered wooden footbridge from the 14th century, lined with flowers. The red begonias made it extra photogenic. Inside, triangular paintings tell pieces of Swiss history.
  • Lion Monument – Massive carving of a dying lion tucked into a rock face in a little grotto, honoring Swiss Guards killed during the French Revolution. Mark Twain called it “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world.”
  • Old Town – Cobblestone streets, painted facades, and plenty of shops and cafés to wander. Compact and walkable, with colorful buildings right along the river.
  • Nölliturm Tower – Part of the Musegg Wall, Lucerne’s medieval fortifications built in the 14th and 15th centuries. Nölliturm dates back to 1513 and is one of 9 towers still standing.
  • Spreuer Bridge – Another old covered bridge from the 1400s. Paintings under the roof show the Dance of Death, a reminder that death comes for everyone. The bridge also doubled as part of the city’s defenses.
  • Food/Drink:
    • Picnic Style – We kept it simple with grab-and-go. Lunch at Twiny Station (vegetarian schnitzel) and dinner at Banh Mi Pho Luzern (pork belly noodle bowl and Vietnamese ham sandwich). Not much public seating in Old Town, so we carried both meals down to Mühlenplatz (plaza) by the water.
    • Confiserie Sprüngli – Famous for Luxemburgerli, their mini macarons. Tried four flavors—pre-dinner, naturally.
  • Random Observations:
    • Both Zurich and Lucerne are very quiet for cities. Lots of biking, walking, and scooters instead of cars. Probably tied to vehicle and emissions rules, but it makes wandering peaceful.
    • Escalator etiquette is clear: stand on the right, walk on the left. Everyone follows it.
    • Only negative so far – lots of smoking. Ashtrays on almost every outdoor café table, and it’s common to walk through clouds of smoke in busy spots, like train stations.

Day 4 – Innsbruck, Austria

  • Morning Train – Quick breakfast at the hotel before heading to the station. We sprung for first class since we’d be on trains for 4.5 hours today. I love European trains – you show up a few minutes before departure, grab your seats, and go. So easy compared to air travel.
  • Gotthard Panorama Express – Paid a little extra for reserved seats in a panorama car on the Zurich to Innsbruck leg. Worth it for the scenery – farms, lakes, and snow-covered Alps.
  • Liechtenstein Sighting – Passed through briefly and caught a glimpse of a castle near Vaduz. Planning to stop on the way back to Zurich later and officially count it as another country visited.
  • Train Booking Notes – I think I earned a degree trying to sort out booking tickets through different operators – SBB (Swiss), OBB (Austria), DB (German). They all sell tickets on each other’s trains, but depending on the route and how early you book, one may be cheaper. For our trip, individual tickets were less expensive than rail passes. Between me and ChatGPT, we figured it out. Their apps are all easy to use, and I printed paper backups just in case.
  • Innsbruck Old Town:
    • Altstadthotel Weisses Kreuz – Arrived just after noon. The hotel welcomed us with a beer while they checked us in. Gorgeous top floor reception/bar area. Our room had a window seat overlooking the Golden Roof – perfect for people watching.
    • Golden Roof – A balcony built in the 1500s for Emperor Maximilian I, with 2,657 gilded tiles (copper topped with a thin layer of gold). Innsbruck’s most famous landmark and the centerpiece of Old Town.
    • Maria-Theresien-Straße – Main shopping street. The Old Town looks bigger on a map but is very walkable.
    • Nordkette Funicular – Rode the funicular up the mountain about 1,000 feet. Stations were designed by architect Zaha Hadid. Scenic lookout at the top. You can continue by cable car further up, but it was pricey and I don’t love heights, so we skipped it.
    • Old Town at Night – Stumbled into a local band concert in front of the Golden Roof. Traditional music mixed with ABBA. Spent the evening wandering and admiring the colorful facades lit up at night. Many date back to the 15th and 16th centuries, often painted to display wealth, faith, or family heritage.
  • Food:
    • Stiftskeller – Classic restaurant and beer garden. Veal Wiener schnitzel and a pretzels with 3 cheese spreads spreads hit the spot.
    • Baklava Café – Tiny food window in a back alley with a couple of cafe tables. Baklava and ice cream for dessert.
    • karaffu | coffee culture – Walked to this cute café for matcha, a pistachio cream croissant, and cappuccino. Delicious!
    • Aldi (called Hofer here) – Stopped at a couple Aldi’s on this trip for snacks. Yes Mom, they have your “aisle of shame” here too!
  • Random Observations:
    • Dogs everywhere – walking the streets, riding trains, sitting in restaurants. Love how dog friendly it is here.
    • Global brands are everywhere too – North Face, Patagonia, luxury shops. Plenty of boutique shops, but lots you’d find back home too. Usually I can spot other Americans by their clothes, but here it’s harder.
    • Grocery stores sell toilet paper packs with built-in handles for easy carrying home.
    • Very bike and pedestrian friendly.
    • Floors start at 0, not 1. So the 3rd floor is actually 4 flights of stairs…be warned.

Day 5 – Munich, Germany

  • Morning Train – Took an OBB first-class train from Innsbruck to Munich.
  • NS-Dokumentationszentrum München – Free museum on Munich’s role in the rise of the Nazi Party. Hitler gave early speeches here, and the city became known as the “Capital of the Movement.”
  • Königsplatz – Walked through on the way to the museum. Big open square with neoclassical buildings that were once used for Nazi rallies. Today it’s quiet and lined with art museums. Hard to picture the contrast.
  • Marienplatz – Old Town was busy with people. A few were already in traditional dress gearing up for Oktoberfest, but not many yet.
  • Rathaus-Glockenspiel – The New Town Hall dominates the plaza. Gothic Revival style, built in the late 1800s. Its famous clock tower has mechanical figures that come out a few times a day to reenact scenes from Munich’s history – a joust, a royal wedding, and the coopers’ dance after the plague. We didn’t catch the show, but we had dinner in the square with a great view.
  • Feldherrnhalle – Site of Hitler’s failed Beer Hall Putsch. Later it became a Nazi memorial, and people were expected to salute as they walked by. There’s an alley behind it with a path of gold bricks to mark where people used to sneak around instead of saluting.
  • Hofbräuhaus München – Walked past but skipped the line. We found out later Heidi Klum was throwing a private “Heidifest” party inside to kick off the season.
  • Holiday Inn – the niu, Brass Munich Olympiapark (IHG) – Our hotel is near the Olympic Park and BMW HQ. About a 15-minute walk to two different metro stations. It’s a little outside the center, but the U-Bahn makes it an easy trip in.
  • Food:
    • Wildmosers Restaurant-Café am Marienplatz – Peter went local with Weisswurst (Munich sausage). I stuck with sweet potatoes and avocado spread – basically guacamole.
  • Random Observations:
    • Hotels here give you 2 separate comforters per bed, plus either 1 pillow or a big + small combo. No washcloths. Toiletries are usually just one all-in-one soap/shampoo.
    • The U-Bahn is easy to use. We bought a “Gruppen-Tageskarte” zone M day pass for 2 people. Rode the U2 line, which still runs some of the original 1972 cars from when the metro opened for the Munich Olympics – like stepping back in time.
    • Google Maps is great for public transit directions. (ChatGPT, not so much – it confidently sent us the wrong way on the metro)

Day 6 – Salzburg, Austria

  • Day Trip – We took a day trip to Salzburg today using the DB regional “Bayern Ticket.” It covers all of Bavaria (plus Salzburg) and is valid weekdays after 9am and all day weekends/holidays. The ticket covered both of us for a discounted rate. The ride to Salzburg was just under 2 hours each way from Munich. We went 2nd class – regional trains aren’t as nice, felt more like a big bus – and both directions were jam packed. DB trains also have a reputation for delays right now, but we made it.
  • Salzburg Overview – Mozart’s hometown and Sound of Music filming location. The historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The river splits the city in two – Old Town with its narrow streets, baroque buildings, and cathedral, and on the other side – Mirabell Gardens. Compact, and walkable, with the fortress looming overhead. Very touristy, but still charming. You can take the funicular up to the fortress, but we didn’t have time today.
  • Mirabell Gardens – Beautiful gardens with fountains, statues, and views of the fortress. A Sound of Music filming location. The quirky Dwarf Garden is tucked inside – 17 stone dwarfs carved in the 1700s, each with funny expressions and poses. Worth a quick detour.
  • Getreidegasse – Narrow, busy shopping street lined with wrought-iron signs. Mix of souvenir shops, fashion, and cafés tucked into historic buildings. Mozart’s birthplace is here too.
  • Rupertikirtag (St. Rupert’s Day Fair) – An annual festival in the squares around Salzburg Cathedral, honoring the city’s patron saint. Dating back to the 14th century, it features vintage rides, beer tents, market stalls, and traditional crafts. We didn’t plan for it, but lucked into being there on opening day and even caught the ceremonial keg tapping!
  • Food/Drink:
    • Augustiner Braugasthof Krimpelstätter – The Augustiner Brewery was founded by monks in 1621. The main beer hall wasn’t open yet, so we ended up at a small restaurant beer garden just around the corner. Half liter of Augustiner beer with goulash and spinach dumplings hit the spot.
  • Random Observations:
    • Roll-top backpacks are very popular here.
    • Sink laundry has been necessary the last couple of nights – the downside of minimalist packing.
    • Lots of walking this trip – 9.5 miles today, averaging around 9 per day. My legs are tired.
    • Added an S-Bahn ride today. Similar to the U-Bahn but geared more toward regional commuting.

Day 7 & 8 – Munich, Germany

  • Munich – The name literally means “settlement of monks,” a nod to the monastery and beer-brewing monks that put the city on the map over 800 years ago. Fast forward to 1516, when Duke Wilhelm IV set down the Reinheitsgebot, the German Beer Purity Law, limiting beer to just barley, hops, and water (they didn’t know about yeast yet). That law still shapes brewing here today.
  • Oktoberfest Festival – Day 1 (Opening Day) –
    • Parade – The opening day parade is the Grand entry of the Oktoberfest landlords and breweries. We staked out a curb spot on Schwanthalerstraße about an hour before the start and watched the brewery processions line up. The festival doesn’t officially begin until the mayor taps the first keg at noon, followed by 12 rifle shots to signal the tents to start serving.
    • Festival – We made an unplanned stop by the festival grounds after the parade. Mass chaos. Shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. We popped into several tents just to see them. A waiter flagged us down in the Hacker-Pschorr tent and brought us litre mugs. The tents are cash only — you pay as soon as the beer arrives.
    • Some nice college students let us crash their table until their friends showed up. They’d been in line since 6am and sprinted for a table when the tents opened. Most people were standing on benches singing with the live band — John Denver’s Country Roads and Sweet Caroline made the playlist!
    • Olde Wiesn – Paid 4 euro to go into Old Wiesn, a more traditional side area. Less crowded, but still very full inside the tents.
      Fun fact: Oktoberfest started in 1810 as a feast and horse race to celebrate a royal wedding.
  • Oktoberfest Festival – Day 2 (First Sunday) –
    • Lined up at the main gate before 9am opening. Went straight to the Augustiner-Bräu tent. Augustiner is one of the six official Oktoberfest breweries and the only one still tapping from wooden barrels. By 11am the festival was filling up quickly. Early on the weekdays are your best bet for a calmer experience.
    • We wore our dirndl and lederhosen today – thanks to sweet friends letting us borrow them. You will see people wearing them all over town during the festival.
    • Oktoberfestbiers must all be brewed within Munich city limits, meet the Purity Law, and be Märzen-style around 6% ABV. The “Big Six” breweries are Augustiner, Hacker-Pschorr, Hofbräu, Löwenbräu, Paulaner, and Spaten (the first to brand its Märzen as “Oktoberfestbier”).
  • Food/Drink:
    • Hofbräuhaus – Famous beer hall that’s now a tourist hotspot. It was also a stage for Hitler’s early speeches and rallies. The Bavarian flags on the ceiling cover swastikas painted during that era. Dark history aside, it’s still state-owned today. We grabbed a pint here after the festival.
    • Augustiner-Bräu – Founded in 1328 by monks, Munich’s oldest brewery. We stopped in the beer garden for dinner and drinks after the festival madness.
    • Daily Dosis – Lunch & Bar – Tucked inside a little shopping mall. Grabbed matcha and cappuccino after the parade on Day 1.
    • Café Fräulein – Dessert stop after our Salzburg day. Not far from the Viktualienmarkt farmers market.
  • Random Observations:
    • Tried out Dott electric scooters to get to and from the metro. Convenient and allowed in bike lanes.
    • PSA: don’t walk in the bike lanes or you’ll get run over. We also took an Uber to save time over the metro.
    • Many stores (including grocery stores) are closed on Sunday.

Day 9 – Vaduz, Liechtenstein

  • Travel Day – Early train from Munich HBF to Sargans, Switzerland, with a change at St. Margrethen. Much cooler today, highs around 60 with rain (vs 80 and sunny the past few days). The trench coat earned its spot in the backpack!
  • Sargans, Switzerland – From Sargans, it’s a ~30 min bus ride into Vaduz (used the LIEmobil day pass in the SBB app). We stashed our backpacks in the station lockers — 6 hours for 9 CHF — so we could explore without the extra weight.
  • Vaduz, Liechtenstein:
    • Country #33 for me! Liechtenstein was established in 1719 when the ruling family basically bought their way onto the map. It’s still the only country named after a family. Today it’s the 6th smallest country in the world, with ~40k people and one of the highest GDPs per capita thanks to banking, high-end manufacturing, and some clever tax policies.
    • Städtle (main street) – Compact and very walkable. Lined with sculptures, cafés, and shops, it feels like a public outdoor sculpture garden.
    • Liechtenstein Postal Museum – Most museums are closed on Mondays, but this small, free spot was open. Displays the history of Liechtenstein’s stamps with a cute little gift shop.
    • Vaduz Castle – The Prince still lives here, so no tours. You can hike up for Rhine Valley views, or just admire it from town like we did, framed by vineyards and mountains.
    • Red House – Local landmark and private home. Good spot for photos of the castle with vineyards and the Alps behind it.
    • Treasure Chamber – A bit hidden. You buy a token at the Postal Museum and enter through a gold sliding door on the opposite end of the building. A small collection of paintings, a replica crown, Fabergé eggs, and even moon rocks gifted from Apollo 11. No photos allowed. Not essential, but worth it since most other museums were closed.
  • Return Trip – We spent about 4 hours in Vaduz (not including the bus rides). We didn’t pre-book our return since we weren’t sure how long we’d stay. From Sargans, we booked point-to-point tickets on the SBB app back to Zurich. Trains run frequently.
  • Zurich Airport – Overnight at Hyatt Place Airport Circle, attached to the airport, for our early flight tomorrow.
  • Food/Drink:
    • Hofkellerei Winery (Vaduz) – Owned by the Prince. We did a private tasting and strolled the vineyards before heading back into town for a late lunch.
    • Café Bar Vanini 1991 (Vaduz) – Winery staff recommended this little café. I had a burrata salad and matcha. Peter had pork schnitzel and a local beer.
  • Random Observations / Tips:
    • Six countries have German as an official or co-official language: Austria, Belgium, Germany, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Switzerland.
    • “Hoi” is a common greeting in Liechtenstein.
    • Request the check — most restaurants won’t bring it until you ask. Cards are processed at the table or at a terminal, never taken away.
    • FYI – bottle caps stay attached in the EU for easier recycling to reduce plastic waste.
    • Google Fi cell service worked great — upgraded for international data and cheap calling. No data issues outside of very rural areas on the train.
    • Super Saver Tickets — Most rail operators offer discounted fares if you book early with a set schedule. For us, single tickets were cheaper than rail passes since our itinerary was mostly fixed.

Trip Stats:
Trains: 12 (not counting metro)
Countries: 4 (Switzerland, Austria, Germany & Lichtenstein)

Back to Top